If you’ve ever ordered custom shirts and got lost in the lingo—ring-spun, combed cotton, 30 singles, 180 GSM—you’re not alone. Understanding these terms can make the difference between getting a soft, retail-quality shirt… or something that feels like a freebie from a trade show in 2003.
At Level Up Print, we believe informed customers make better branding decisions—so here’s a breakdown of the most important cotton terms you need to know.
🧵 1. What is Ring-Spun Cotton?
Ring-spun cotton is made by twisting and thinning the cotton fibers to create a stronger, smoother, and softer yarn. Compared to basic open-end cotton, ring-spun shirts feel softer to the touch and are more durable.
Key Benefits:
- Softer hand feel
- Stronger fabric = longer lasting
- Great for screen printing or DTF transfers
📌 Most premium brands (like Next Level, Bella+Canvas, or AS Colour) use ring-spun cotton.
💈 2. What is Combed Cotton?
Combed cotton is one step up from ring-spun. After spinning, the fibers are combed to remove impurities and shorter strands, leaving only the smoothest and most durable threads.
Combed = extra refined = even softer.
Combed + ring-spun cotton is the gold standard for comfort and printability. It’s what we recommend for high-end merch, premium event shirts, or brands looking for a top-shelf retail vibe.
🔢 3. What Does “Singles” Mean in Fabric?
“Singles” refers to the thread thickness used to make the shirt. The higher the singles count, the finer and smoother the yarn.
Here’s a quick guide:
- 18–20 singles: Thicker, rougher (budget tees)
- 24–30 singles: Softer and finer (mid-range to high-end)
- 32+ singles: Extremely soft, lightweight, and luxurious (high fashion or premium blends)
🧠 Think of singles like thread resolution—the higher the number, the more refined the shirt.
⚖️ 4. What is GSM?
GSM = Grams per Square Meter
It measures fabric weight. It doesn’t always determine softness, but it tells you how heavy or light the shirt will feel.
GSM Scale for T-Shirts:
- 120–140 GSM: Lightweight and breathable
- 150–180 GSM: Midweight, balanced durability and softness
- 200+ GSM: Heavyweight and structured (great for boxy/streetwear looks)
📌 A 145 GSM shirt in 30 singles can still feel premium—it depends on the blend and weave.
✅ What Should You Choose?
It depends on your brand vibe and customer base:
Use Case | Recommended Fabric |
---|---|
Promotional Giveaways | 20 singles, 150 GSM, ring-spun cotton (budget) |
Everyday Company Tees | 30 singles, 160-180 GSM, ring-spun |
Premium Merch | 32+ singles, 180 GSM, combed & ring-spun |
Streetwear/Fashion Brands | 200+ GSM, combed cotton, boxy cut |
💬 Final Thoughts
When you’re choosing a blank for your custom apparel, you’re not just picking a shirt—you’re picking how your brand will feel in someone’s hands.
At Level Up Print, we help you choose the right blend, cut, and weight for your project—whether you’re printing 24 shirts or launching your own clothing line.
Need help picking the perfect tee?
We’ve got your back. Reach out today for fabric samples or apparel recommendations that match your style and your budget.